deep in the heart of ireland

CAVAN The county town, blessed with abundance of beauty all around: the labyrinthine Oughter Lakes system with wonderful angling, Cloughoughter Castle (13th century), the Folk Museum, Kilmore romanesque ruin, a crystal factory and a golf course.

BAILIEBOROUGH The road to it passes through a landscape of tumbling hills, lakes and forest. Moybollogues's ancient graveyard is interesting.

VIRGINIA Well names not only because American Civil War hero Gen Phil Sheridan was born nearby but also because of its gentle landscape of which the gem is Lough Ramor, studded with islands and with bathing places. At Cuilcagh House Jonathan Swift began "Gullivers Travles". The house no longer stands.

BALLYJAMESDUFF Immortalised in song by Percy French. Ruins include Kilnacrott Abbey and Ross Castle.

MOUNT NUGENT Near Lough Sheelin popular trout water, also Crover Castle (14th Century) and Ross Castle Keep (14th Century.

DRING At the southern end of meandering Lough Gowna .

GOWNA At the centre of the lake system which is the source of the Erne. Ruins on St Colmcille's Island and ancient tombs at Loughduff. Angling everywhere.

ARVAGH Lakes, lakes and more lakes. Also archaelological monumnets and panorama from Bruse Hill.

KILLESHANDRA On the west side of Lough Oughter, near Killykeen Forest Park projecting into the lake. Ancient remains include Corabrassan and Granshagh Forts and a 17th century abbey. Nature lovers will be charmed by Killykeen. Pig House collection at Cornafean. and extensive collection of folk memorabilia is displayed in farm outhouses including the original 'pig house' from which the collection gets its name.

BELTURBET At the south end of Upper Lough Erne, its cruisers voyage across the border for over 50 miles into Ulster. Historic remains include Drunlane Church and round towr and the site of St Colmcille's Abbey (6th century). Also golf and fishing.

BALLYCONNELL At the head of a long-disused canal, the village is back in the news as developers discuss the dream of joining the Erne to the Shannon to form one of the world's greathest pleasure waterways.

SWANLIBAR Reached by the road round the foot of Slieve Rushen, this is the village whose bygone spa waters had the desirable property of 'curing low spirits.'

DERRYLIN A village once noted for stonemasons they have left strange carved heads atop some walls. Turn east here to cross Upper Lough Erne by bridges affording splendid views.

LISNASKEA Fermanagh's second largest town. Nearby archaeological sites included eerie Aghaulurcher churchyard with strange headstones and touching insceiptions. The church was abandoned after a Maguire slew a kinsman on the alter in 1484.

MAGUIRESBRIDGE Still in a land of eerie stories, the village is 'headquarters' for ladies said to work 'cures' by magic. the Colebrooke River has an international reputation among anglers for both coars and game fish.

LISBELLAW A trim village with the parish church built on a huge rock in the middle.

TEMPO Secluded among the hills; bear right through Clabby to join a very scenic road over the ragne via Lendrum's Bridge to Fintona.

FINTONA So many poets has our regions produced that Fintona has 13 pubs to provide inspiration. Don't miss the statue of St Laurence in chains over the church door. Two miles further on, Seskinore forest is where the northern Forestry Department rears pheasants, grouse and old-style domestic flow of curious appearance.

KNOCKMANY FOREST High in the hills, it has a chambered grave with geometrical designs similare to those on tombs in the Boyne Valley.